Chef-restaurateur Daniel Boulud has done it again. While his world renowned restaurant Daniel is still one of the most coveted reservations in town with a who’s who of celebrity clientele, his latest offering to Manhattan’s lower east side is proving to be yet another feather in Boulud’s decorated cap.
DBGB Kitchen and Bar located at 299 Bowery fits nicely into the casual yet trendy neighborhood with both menu and pricing. For those of us old enough to remember that very same area not 15 years ago it would be hard to believe that a James Beard award winning chef would try his hand at opening an establishment there, but while times have changed Boulud’s focus remains.
The atmosphere is warm and casual with an exposed kitchen and dark woods washed in soft amber light. Elvis Costello is playing in the background on this day adding to the good taste of our surroundings. Prestigious Chefs from around the world donated copper pots to line the rim around the ceiling each one marked by a plaque with their names, Jacque Pepin and Eric Riper among them.
The staff was friendly and knowledgeable carefully guiding us through the impressive beer selections. Green Point Kelso Pilsner or Ayinger Celebrator Dopplebeck is a treat for the lager fan or chose and Allagash White or Harviestouns Old Engine Oil if you prefer ale. Even a non-beer drinker would find something here to their liking.
Now the food: A vegetarian may have a tougher time enjoying the full experience with items ranging from veal links to spicy lamb. A pulled pork sandwich called “the piggie” is designed for carnivorous diners exclusively. My smoked pork and cheddar link with hash browns and crème fraîche called the “Vermont” reminded me why we eat meat to begin with. The pan roasted Italian sausage with braised fennel called the “Toscane” made we wonder why we’d ever stop. On the side I opted for braised spinach and chickpeas.
Every bite was a perfect balance of texture, spice and acid.
Then came the deserts.
Cassis Beer-Yogurt. I’ll quote the menu here, “Seculoos cookie, rainbow meringue, black currant compote, lemon anglaise sauce and whipped cream.” The rainbow meringue is shaped like large chocolate chips dotted around the fluffy cream. It felt like my birthday. Next the Tarte Aux Figues, fresh figs, mascarpone cream with a mound of ginger and red port ice cream. Not too sweet with a crispy crust, a light ending to a decadent meal.
The east village has never tasted better.
By Cassidy Catanzaro
Writer/Co-Editor-in-Chief
DBGB Kitchen and Bar
299 Bowery
New York, NY 10003
(212) 933-5300
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